油基的光泽会随着时间的推移而褪色和变黄，因为油含量会导致表面变色。今后不要使用油性涂料。使用水基光泽，蛋壳和缎子代替。这些水性涂料自从首次进入市场以来，随着时间的推移，它们的性能越来越好。我要分享我的一个顶级商业秘密…当我在现有的油基漆上应用水基光泽，蛋壳等时，我不想花几个小时过度摩擦，以便在两种漆之间提供一个良好的粘合，否则不会很好地相互粘附。因此，我使用了一种特殊的水性涂料，它可以“蚀刻”到几乎任何表面上，所以它可以自己涂在光泽上!然后，在特殊的水基蚀刻漆上涂上新的水基涂料系统。例如，如果你在做主轴，你不会相信这节省了多少时间。这是油漆:zinsser 123 +(是的，愚蠢的名字!)http://www.zinsseruk.com/product/bulls-eye-1-2-3-plus/你通常只能从装饰贸易商店买到，如leyland和brewers，或在网上订购。这不是市场上最便宜的油漆，但我从经验中知道……一分钱一分货! all the paints and products i use are the most expensive on the market but my workmanship lasts and i save huge amounts of labour time when on a job by using the tools, paints and products. follow my trade top tips and you'll too achieve results you wouldn't otherwise be able to!!! happy painting

嗨，汤姆，如果我的假设是正确的，这是一个旧的财产，听起来，在我看来，重新脱脂已经在原来的石膏上做了，这在一定程度上是可以的，如果原来的东西是相当牢固的，但不幸的是，你总是会冒着在旧的，原来的石膏上重新脱脂产生裂缝的风险。如果你正在填充裂缝，而裂缝不断出现，那么它看起来像是底泥处于一个非常糟糕，不稳定的状态，不应该再被抹上。我遇到过很多次这样的工作，客户找了一个“抹灰工”来重新清理房间，因为他们给了他们糟糕的建议，到处都出现了裂缝，这令人震惊。真正解决这个问题的唯一办法是回到砖上，重新开始完全重新粉刷，因为无论你填多少次裂缝，它们都会继续出现，而且随着时间的推移，我担心会变得更糟!希望这能帮到你，卡尔。(附注:如果这是一种新型的属性，而且都是用木板隔开的，那我就糊涂了!；）

是的，这是唯一的办法。任何已经上光的木制品都必须充分擦拭，以便有足够好的底漆。只有这样才能将光泽作为面漆使用。(光泽不会粘附到旧光泽)希望这有助于..

嗨，novice_40，首先，祝你的项目好运-我希望你喜欢它。新粉刷的墙壁/天花板总是需要在油漆开始前适当密封(否则油漆会附着在表面，很容易脱落)。你可以通过涂抹几层乳液“雾涂层”来做到这一点(将初始溶液的60:40的水稀释到乳液中，然后按相反的比例涂抹第二层雾涂层，以增厚覆盖，但仍有足够的水分，使其继续沉入下面的石膏中)。或者，就像汤姆建议的那样，你可以买一个专用的底漆。如果抹灰匠已经“过度抛光”了墙壁，后一种选择将是最好的，因为抹灰不会让雾涂层渗透进去并正确附着。如果你有一个很大的区域/几面墙，那么对你来说最具成本效益的方法是喷雾涂层——这是一个行业标准和完全可以接受的方法。普通的白色乳剂是合适的，既便宜又容易买到。从石膏的最低点开始喷洒，然后用滚筒向上和向外移动。雾涂层干得很快&这种自下而上的方法可以防止你把油漆溅到石膏上。用刷子把边缘剪开。 if the ceiling is also bare, then progress onto the ceiling. within the hour, your walls will be ready for the second mist coat. apply this in the same order as the first. a word of caution: even with the best intentions, mist coats can involve a bit of splashing, so make sure your flooring is protected & the sockets temporarily turned off & covered. once the 2 mist coats have fully dried you can more easily assess the plasterer's handiwork. use a spatula to fill any minor dents & give these a light sanding, once cured. anything major & get the plasterer back to resolve it. you don't want to be sanding down large areas of plaster, as this will cause a rough & spoilt finish that will need copious filling & sanding to put right. now, use a proper water-based wood primer for your bare woodwork - for the same reasons as you need to seal fresh plaster. a primer-undercoat is perfectly suitable - though you will need 2 coats: one to prime, a second to undercoat. a third coat is optional, but we'll get to that in a mo. alternatively, you can buy 2 separate paints: one a specified wood primer & the second a specified undercoat. whilst the primer should be water-based, the undercoat can be oil-based - though only if your satinwood is also oil-based. this method can improve the longevity of the finish. once your primer/first layer of primer-undercoat is dry, caulk your woodwork. next, move back to your ceiling/walls. this time begin with the ceiling (either silk or matt are suitable finishes - but silk is a more reflective surface that draws the eye & can accentuate any imperfections). get your first coat on. cut in free-hand, moving your brush from 1/2 inch away from the corner inwards towards the join as your hand steadies & finds the line. don't try to leap straight into the corner unless you've got a steady hand. whether you cut in before or after rollering is down to personal preference. i prefer beforehand as it avoids a visible 'tram line' created by dragging your brush through a rollered section. whichever you choose, ensure you keep a wet edge (ie: don't allow the paint to dry between cutting in & rollering). allow the edges to dry, then move down to the walls. get your first coat of dulux endurance on. cut in free-hand. once dried, repeat the process for your second coats. if you are prepared to wait up to a couple of days between coats (dep. on drying conditions) for the paint to fully cure, you can use (yellow) frog tape to help you achieve a clean line between surfaces. be very careful when removing it however, as this can pull the paint back off if it isn't fully cured. finally, give your woodwork a light sanding to remove any splashes of paint & nibs of rough wood fibres. ideally, apply another undercoat, to improve the coverage & durability, then (when dry) apply your satinwood top coat. again, if you're happy the walls have cured sufficiently, frog tape can give you a razor sharp line where the satinwood meets the emulsion. take care when peeling it away. there you have it! any questions, feel free to give me a holla. meantime, i hope this helps. happy painting! best, alix james decorators