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Your builder is wrong to say its fine if the mortar is crumbling away. the mix sounds ok at 4/1 if this is what he did use, the problem is either the sand is to soft, and maybe should have been sharper, or i suspect he done it during the low temperatures we had, and it has killed the mortar, which i try to avoid, or never used a wintermix/frost proofer or covered his work up at the end of the day. another problem could be that he back bedded the tiles one day, then came back to point up over, which isnt good practice. i would suggest you got your builder back, rake out all the mortar and rebed and point up in one, if he is a decent builder im sure he will put it right.

你绝对需要得到一个结构性的德西gner to look at the roof if you are proposing to add a staircase and also some sort of roof deck. i would guess that the origional roof joists would not be able to take the extra weight in a safe manner. the staircase would have to be fixed to the existing roof deck/joist and then weathered with the membrane that you would use on the main area. regarding the roof covering you can use a high performance single ply pvc roofing membrane to weather your roof. this can then be overlayed with either a timber decking or a paving slab on supoorts/pebbled finish. the decked area would obviously not be fixed through the roof membrane and just sit loose on top of the roof. the weight of the deck will hold it down.you would have to use a fleece filter/protection layer between the finished membrane and whatever roof deck finish that you fancied. this protects the waterproofing membrane from becoming damaged and also acts as a filtration layer for all the dirt that would accumulate under your deck. we are a registered contractor to supply such a membrane should you ever wish to go ahead with such an idea.

The chances are the window was not installed correctly in the first place. the first thing to look for if the correct flashing kit has been installed (for slate,tile various profile for tiles) . if it is the wrong one or has not been installed properly it's usually down to the head lap, not enough overlap(slate flashing) or side lap (tiles) it could be possible that the apron at the top of the window (acts like a gutter) could be pierced due to a slipped slate. it is possible to fix as velux do replacement parts. i'd imagine it's very rare but if it's a fault with the actual window and frame then velux offer a 10 year warranty, but only enquire once you are sure that the window has been installed correctly. if you don't have proof of purchase then there is a reference badge usually situated behind the handle, that verifys that it's within warranty period. i strongly doubt the possibility of the window leaking due to a build up of leaves, that would mean a lot of problems for velux if that was the case. there windows are tested against all sorts of weather conditions and scenarios. is the window and flashing correct for the angle (pitch) of the roof? (wrong combination will result in leaks) your builder needs to check every possibility and scan all the way around the window and above to ridge height to determin no breakages above the window, if there are then there's a chance water can work its way down the underlay or rafters and get in where the underlay has been cut open when window was installed. any of these suggestions should be easy to solve. you mentioned you used a builder, i don't speak for all builders ( i beleive every trade should stick to there own) but you should really request a viewing off a reputable roofing company, plenty of experience counts for a lot. i hope this is helpful. graham ( g.h. roofing)

Depending on how bad the felt is, i.e. if it is that trades people on the roof over the years have put their feet through the felt, small patches can be inserted in a v shape to the width of the trusses and stapled to the roof trusses internally over the lower strip and under the upper strip. if it is a case that the felt has failed completely, the only correct way is to replace it, and i am afraid a roof refurbishment is often required after 40 years or more, refelted with a breathable roof membrain, not felt, is the correct way approved by building control. other methods of "tanking" from inside only costs more to replace the roof in the future when it finally reaches its lifespan.