如果你想要100%的完成，子结构是正确的……如果成本是一个问题，那么简单地把所有的纸都擦掉，糖皂可以用来清洁粘贴，但我总是在剥离后直接涂上白色乙烯基哑光底漆，然后让墙壁24小时干燥。一旦干燥，白色底漆将密封膏体，并防止膏体污染进一步的涂层。填充和刮除是在底漆上完成的，它是白色的，可以突出所有坏的地方。我一直在做这个系统，从来没有一个问题与膏…祝你好运，蒂姆

多乐士或皇冠涂料(贸易)是最好的，其余的都是敲竹杠。白色的柳条光泽在短时间后会变黄。利兰油漆供应灯芯。

1、用矿物烈酒和抹布彻底清洗表面。2、用木材填料填充任何凹痕或钉子孔，按照您选择的特定木材填料的说明。3、用细级砂纸轻轻打磨表面，直到所有有光泽的清漆被从表面去除。4、用吸尘器吸干待刷区域，用抹布将待刷区域的砂子上的灰尘清理干净。5、表面涂油基锌粉底漆。6、等待底漆完全干燥。7涂2层多乐士贸易底漆。8、涂1 ~ 2层多乐士贸易光泽。我希望这能有所帮助。马特

嗨，novice_40，首先，祝你的项目好运-我希望你喜欢它。新粉刷的墙壁/天花板总是需要在油漆开始前适当密封(否则油漆会附着在表面，很容易脱落)。你可以通过涂抹几层乳液“雾涂层”来做到这一点(将初始溶液的60:40的水稀释到乳液中，然后按相反的比例涂抹第二层雾涂层，以增厚覆盖，但仍有足够的水分，使其继续沉入下面的石膏中)。或者，就像汤姆建议的那样，你可以买一个专用的底漆。如果抹灰匠已经“过度抛光”了墙壁，后一种选择将是最好的，因为抹灰不会让雾涂层渗透进去并正确附着。如果你有一个很大的区域/几面墙，那么对你来说最具成本效益的方法是喷雾涂层——这是一个行业标准和完全可以接受的方法。普通的白色乳剂是合适的，既便宜又容易买到。从石膏的最低点开始喷洒，然后用滚筒向上和向外移动。雾涂层干得很快&这种自下而上的方法可以防止你把油漆溅到石膏上。用刷子把边缘剪开。 if the ceiling is also bare, then progress onto the ceiling. within the hour, your walls will be ready for the second mist coat. apply this in the same order as the first. a word of caution: even with the best intentions, mist coats can involve a bit of splashing, so make sure your flooring is protected & the sockets temporarily turned off & covered. once the 2 mist coats have fully dried you can more easily assess the plasterer's handiwork. use a spatula to fill any minor dents & give these a light sanding, once cured. anything major & get the plasterer back to resolve it. you don't want to be sanding down large areas of plaster, as this will cause a rough & spoilt finish that will need copious filling & sanding to put right. now, use a proper water-based wood primer for your bare woodwork - for the same reasons as you need to seal fresh plaster. a primer-undercoat is perfectly suitable - though you will need 2 coats: one to prime, a second to undercoat. a third coat is optional, but we'll get to that in a mo. alternatively, you can buy 2 separate paints: one a specified wood primer & the second a specified undercoat. whilst the primer should be water-based, the undercoat can be oil-based - though only if your satinwood is also oil-based. this method can improve the longevity of the finish. once your primer/first layer of primer-undercoat is dry, caulk your woodwork. next, move back to your ceiling/walls. this time begin with the ceiling (either silk or matt are suitable finishes - but silk is a more reflective surface that draws the eye & can accentuate any imperfections). get your first coat on. cut in free-hand, moving your brush from 1/2 inch away from the corner inwards towards the join as your hand steadies & finds the line. don't try to leap straight into the corner unless you've got a steady hand. whether you cut in before or after rollering is down to personal preference. i prefer beforehand as it avoids a visible 'tram line' created by dragging your brush through a rollered section. whichever you choose, ensure you keep a wet edge (ie: don't allow the paint to dry between cutting in & rollering). allow the edges to dry, then move down to the walls. get your first coat of dulux endurance on. cut in free-hand. once dried, repeat the process for your second coats. if you are prepared to wait up to a couple of days between coats (dep. on drying conditions) for the paint to fully cure, you can use (yellow) frog tape to help you achieve a clean line between surfaces. be very careful when removing it however, as this can pull the paint back off if it isn't fully cured. finally, give your woodwork a light sanding to remove any splashes of paint & nibs of rough wood fibres. ideally, apply another undercoat, to improve the coverage & durability, then (when dry) apply your satinwood top coat. again, if you're happy the walls have cured sufficiently, frog tape can give you a razor sharp line where the satinwood meets the emulsion. take care when peeling it away. there you have it! any questions, feel free to give me a holla. meantime, i hope this helps. happy painting! best, alix james decorators